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| May 95 |
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The inflatable skimmed across a narrow mirror of water. Jungle-covered shoreline roses up steeply on either side of us. The calls of birds and animals emanated and echoed from within the thick jungle canopies on both shores. The sounds, the smells, the sights were not of this century. The scene had changed little since the Portuguese first landed on these shores in 1522. Brazil may been discovered about the same time as North America, but the feeling of adventure and discovered still lurks around every corner, in every lagoon, even just a few hours from Rio de Janeiro. It wouldn't surprise me to find a pirate slip here.
While the United States was pushed into an early adulthood. Brazil seems suspended in perpetual adolescence. The atmosphere is rough and ready, poised for adventure, primed for danger, but with the emphasis squarely on enjoying life and its offerings - and there is much to enjoy about Brazil and its people.
IN THE CHARTER BUSINESS, THIS TRANSLATES info a type of cruise that may edge a little closer to adventure travel than your average week in the Caribbean. Chartering is relatively new to Brazil; Tony Silveira of Captain's Yacht Charters says he imported and adapted the idea less than 10 years ago. Travel to and within Brazil can be adventure in itself; the flight from New York takes about 12 hours and costs roughly $ 1,000. A 10-day sail charter on a 40'yacht, including captain and provisioning for four, starts at about $ 4,500 (about $ 7,00 for a power charter on a yacht of similar size).
But for those who dare to go the distance, there awaits in this South American country wonderful people, clear waters, deserted islands, private beaches, jungle vegetation, and a cove of one's own.
Brazil's prime cruising area is Baia da Ilha Grande (Big Island Bay), a mountain-rimmed bight on the country's so-called Green Coast. There are more than 300 islands within the bay, ranging from tiny granite outcroppings just large enough to sustain a palm tree or banana plant, to the 122-sq.mi. Ilha Grande that protects the bay from ocean swells. Most of the islands are uninhabited or sparsely settled, covered with lush jungle vegetation craggy coasts include so may lagoons and inlets that safe harbor for the night is just na anchor's throw away almost anywhere in the bay. And, though this is Brazil's most popular cruising area, it is blissfully uncrowded most of the year. In five days of sailing in the area, we saw at most a handful of other pleasure boats each day.
Our home for these days was Voyager, a 40'French-designed sailboat chartered through Captain's. The best thing about Voyager - besides the inflatable that we used to explore the inlets and islands - was skipper/owner Heitor de Souza. Although a successful physicist with his own laboratory in Rio, Heitor's first love is the wilder waters of this part of Brazil. Every change he gets, he's out here, marveling at the gifts of nature and introducing them to this guests.
Although everyone assured us that it was quite unusual for the area and the time of year (late October), it rained and drizzled for most of our stay in Brazil. But the fog and the mist that hung in the valleys on the islands just added to the feeling of mystery and discovery.
THE RAIN SEEMED TO BRING OUT THE best in the vegetation. Amid the nearly infinite shades of green, a cascade of yellow and purple blossoms spilled down the side of one island. Wild impatiens proliferated at such a rate that they earned their Brazilian nickname, "Shameless Mary". Colorful bromeliad competed with epiphytes, most and cacti for the shallow soil. Night-blooming cirrus overslept, remaining in full on misty mornings.
Bird called from all directions. Oversized kingfishers swooped and squawked close to the shore. Gavião, witch Heitor called Brazilian eagles, hunted for small prey along the coast. Flocks of vultures took the place of sunbathers on the beach. Frigate birds circled over fishing boats.
On many of the larger islands - especially Ilha Grande, the southern tip of which is a national park - dirt trail lead around the coast and into the interior of the forests. These paths are well worn by natives who depend on them (and dugout canoes) to get from one house to the next. In a bamboo grove along one of these trails, we spotted a bird brighter and more red than our own scarlet tanager, and everywhere humming-bird buzzed from flower to flower.
Most of the full-time residents of these islands are fishermen who earn their keep bay dragging nets the stern of brightly colored fishing boats or by hanging hand-made traps off dugout canoes. One afternoon, a fisherman in a canoe approached our boat offering for sale a beautiful red snapper just in time dinner.
Just south of the bay islands is Paraty-Mirim, a labyrinth of jutting peninsula so steep and narrow that the water between them is more river than bay. On a clear night, Heitor told us, the stars are so bright and the water so still, that you can see the heavens reflected on the sea. Even when the stars aren't our, the water glitters and glows with phosphorescence.
Here, seemingly in the middle of nowhere, in a cove called Saco de Velha ( "little bay of the old woman"), an enterprising man has established a bar-restaurant that is hardly more than a shelter on the beach. At our arrival, a table was quickly set ate the end of the bamboo dock. Our fish and fried manioc was presented without utensils and only wax paper to wipe our hands. But the fish was fresh and tasty and the beer was cold, and we could have sat there all afternoon.
Although the area seemed undiscovered on the surface, there was evidence of man's invasions. The waters, while clear, held fewer fish than one would expect-perhaps a sign of overfishing. Large lawns surrounded some of the newer houses, interrupting the natural rhythm of the forest. Holding tanks are virtually unknown among pleasure boatsmen, a fact that made using the head more disconcerting than usual.
Having cruised these waters for many years, Heitor yearns to protect his escape from the city. "When I am the president of the Republic of Ilha Grande...," he often muses. In Heitor's world, development would be tightly regulated; nature would take precedence over progress. If this area becomes more popular - as it clearly will - Heitor is right: Stricter controls will be necessary to keep the environment pristine.
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 Voyager, a
40' French-designed |
Our last full day of charter was a rainy Saturday, a good day to hole up in a local restaurant and feast on feijoada, the Brazilian national dish. Heitor donned foul weather gear, and we motored in the pouring rain to Parati. The harbor full of traditional Brazilian schooners and the cityscape of 17 th century European architecture fit with my visions of pirates and imperialism.
Parati was founded in 1660 as a port for the export of gold and diamonds from the interior of the country to the motherland of Portugal. When Brazil declared independence in 1822. The city's importance diminished, and when a new road from Rio de Janeiro to São Paulo skipped over Parati, the port was virtually forgotten. Rediscovered in the 1950's as a period piece preserved, Parati is now a Brazilian national monument, a UNESCO World Heritage site, an enclave for artists and artisans and a fitting final destination for our cruise.
The cobblestoned streets are a bit tricky underfoot, especially after four days on a boat. To add to the confusion, the roads dip in the middle to allow the spring tide to sweep the streets once a month. White stucco buildings with brightly colored wood trim and inviting courtyards line these narrow streets. Cars are prohibited within the historic section of the town; deliveries to stores and restaurants are made by donkey and cart.
Heitor took us to a small restaurants along the beach, just outside the old section of town. Families with young children and men in white shirts passed food around long tables. The waiter brought us our own crock of spicy black beans cooked with bits of meat and sausage. Rice, kale and our new favorite, fried manioc, rounded out the meal. The beverage of choice was limo, a mixture of lime juice and chilled cachaça (Brazilian sugar cane liquor) - kind of like a rough-and-ready margarita.
After our day in Parati, we headed back to the protected waters of Parati-Mirin for one last night in the wilderness before heading back to contemporary civilization. In the still and the dark and the fog, it was hard to shake the feeling that we had discovered something, something rare and fragile. And that, having discovered it, it was now partly our responsibility to preserve it.
CHARTER GUIDE
GETTING THERE Several American and Brazilian airlines, including American, United, Varig and VASP, fly regularly from major U.S. gateways to São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro. Angra dos Reis, located about two hours south of Rio and about 2 ½ hours from São Paulo, is the primary departure point for charters in Baía da Ilha Grande. Captain's Yacht Charter will arrange transfers by car. Van or helicopter at an extra charge. CHARTER Although there are several companies that offer cruises and day trips on Brazilian schooners, Captain's Yacht Charters offers the greatest variety of power and sailing yachts from 38' to over 100' to accommodate from four to 20 passengers. All charter's include skipper and, in some cases, crew. Because diesel fuel and marine hardware are expensive in Brazil, power charters cost considerably more than sail. To obtain other information on charters in Brazil, write to Captain's Yacht Charters, CP 56 090, CEP 22292-970 Rio de Janeiro, Brazil . Tel 0055 21 275 3540 or 0055 21 9984 2026 or fax. 0055 21 522 6945. Foreigners must obtain a visa from a Brazilian consulate or through a visa service in the United States before departure to Brazil. For more information, call the Brazilian Consulate General in New York City, (212) 757-3080. The Brazilian currency, real, has recently been stabilized. The exchange rate at press time was 89 real to one dollar. Portuguese is the official language. People in the tourist business generally speak some English, but knowledge of one of the Romance languages will help. CONDITIONS The temperatures rarely drop below 55 degrees even during Brazil's "winter" months (July and August), so almost any time of year can be a good time to charter. Rain is perhaps more likely in May and September. The height of Brazilian summer (January and February) can be extremely hot and afternoon thundershowers are common. Mornings in Baía da Ilha Grande are generally windless, perfect for snorkeling, hiking or exploring by dinghy. The wind pipes up in the afternoons, but with the protection of the big island, there are rarely ocean swells.
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